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If you’re interested in knowing how I made this, along with my other photos, you can check out my HDR Tutorial

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Technorati Tags: mast, ruins, cork, ireland, nikon, d300, europe, hdr, tonemapped, projectvisual, high dynamic range, church, clouds, textures

The Canon PowerShot SD4000 IS Digital ELPH Camera is a small camera with big camera features. The 3.8x optical zoom lens has a blazing fast f-stop of f/2.0. This allows you to shoot in low-light, and you can also create out of focus backgrounds with sharp subjects. The 28-105mm lens (35mm equivalent) gives you the flexibility to shoot a variety of subjects. The 10.0 megapixel CMOS sensor along with Canon’s advanced DIGIC 4 image processor are the main components in the Canon HS System. This system along with the camera’s bright f/2.0 lens, ISO settings of up to 3200, and optical image stabilization allow you to get quality images in low-light.

You can check out this camera, at a nifty $299.95, here.

Check out this promo video showing a sneak peak of one of the 13 HDR Tutorials on the package:

The Guide comes in two formats: Basic, selling for $197 and Premium, which goes for $397.

The Basic Package Includes

• 3 DVD Set
• 334 Minutes – 5 hours and 34 minutes
• Many step-by-step on-screen tutorials (screen-captured video and more)
• Access to “The Clubhouse”
  • A private section of StuckInCustoms.com
  • Access-only forums for private discussions
  • Get the latest techniques, information, and more
  • Open discussion area for questions and how-tos
  • Compare notes and photos with other hardcore post-processing enthusiasts!

The fancier Premium Package comes with everything in the Basic Package, but with plenty of tempting extras:

1. Premium Only – 1 Extra DVD
2. Premium Only – 388 Minutes – 6 hours and 28 minutes
3. Premium Only – Over 100 Working Files – Bracketed photos for following along
4. Premium Only – Bonus Bracketed images straight from Trey’s camera for practice
5. Premium Only – Free eBook – Top 10 Mistakes in HDR Processing, Bonus Edition
6. Premium Only – 3 Bonus Screencast Tutorials with new techniques!

There is literally years of experience in these DVDs and there are plenty of positive comments from people who have already bought it, so if you’re serious about your HDR they’re well worth checking out.

Basic

Premium

Now that I’ve finished college I am settling nicely into my new routine of getting up whenever the hell I want and deciding how I’m gonna spend my day; I just need to figure out the limits of ones abilities to do things with next to no money

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If you’re interested in knowing how I made this, along with my other photos, you can check out my HDR Tutorial

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Technorati Tags: abandoned, ruins, cork, ireland, nikon, d300, europe, hdr, tonemapped, projectvisual, high dynamic range, church, clouds, textures

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If you’re interested in knowing how I made this, along with my other photos, you can check out my HDR Tutorial

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Technorati Tags: car, wheels, slick, kerry, ireland, kingdom, nikon, d300, europe, hdr, tonemapped, projectvisual, high dynamic range

In other news, I’ve begun looking at what the hell the point is of the Tone Compressor in Photomatix; expect a post on that in the near future. I’m off to Kinsale over the weekend for a wedding so I’m anticipating some cool photos from the area .

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If you’re interested in knowing how I made this, along with my other photos, you can check out my HDR Tutorial

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Technorati Tags: malta, mediterranean, sun, glare, direct, trees, desert, dry, yellow, stone, nikon, d300, europe, hdr, tonemapped, projectvisual, high dynamic range

Here’s a pic from Co. Kerry (I need to travel more), taken around New Years 2010. I always like these shots into the sun, but I foolishly had my ISO settings high by mistake during my whole time there so there was a whole load of noise in all my Kerry shots .

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If you’re interested in knowing how I made this, along with my other photos, you can check out my HDR Tutorial

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Technorati Tags: ireland, dingle, kerry, sun, glare, direct, boats, dock, fishing, nikon, d300, europe, hdr, tonemapped, projectvisual, high dynamic range

So you’ve got your equipment, you’ve headed out into the big bad world, and you’ve taken your three / five / however many exposures of your favorite landscape, building, automobile or granny, now you’ve got to turn them into your very first masterpiece! You will of course need Photomatix for this to work; it’s the one essential piece of software you need. There are a couple of others, but I’ll mention them later. You can pick up Photomatix from HDRsoft. Remember to use the discount coupon “projectvisual” when purchasing to get your 15% discount .

OK, so open Photomatix. The left image below should pop up and you can select ‘Generate HDR image’. The right side image will jump up in your face and let you open your set of images.

      

Once you select the exposure range you can fine tune all your setting below. The ones shown are the settings I almost always use; if you shoot in RAW you can adjust the white balance at a later time.

Leave Photomatix to do its magic; importing your images, aligning them, reducing noise, fringing, and all that other stuff that make Photomatix so wonderful. You’ll end up with a HDR image that needs to be tone mapped so it can be properly viewed on your LDR monitor. Select ‘Tone Mapping’ from the first image above (or Process –> Tone Mapping from the toolbar and BAM! you have your image!). Don’t stop now though there’s still plenty to do …

Details Enhancer

There are two top level tone mapping settings in Photomatix – Details Enhancer and Tone Compressor. As far as I am aware Details Enhancer is the setting most people use; it’s also the default one so lets just stick with that one . Now Photomatix has a lot of settings, some of which you probably won’t use, and I think the best way to show you how each one affects your HDR image is with two images for each setting; one at the minimum (left) value, and one at the maximum (right) value. Bear in mind that by using this method of showing you the effect of each setting, all of the images below will look like extreme (slightly odd) versions of the finished shot. Also you can’t tell how one setting influences another .

• Strength

  

  • What Photomatix says – “Controls the strength of the contrast enhancements. A value of 100 gives the maximum increase in both local and global contrast enhancements. The default value is 70.”
  • What I say – While other settings in Photomatix will enhance or flatten your pics, without a decently sized strength value your photos will not have that WOW factor you are looking for. Typically a good starting value for this is about 70%, but I’ve slid it all the way up to 100% on more than one occasion.

• Color Saturation

  

  • What Photomatix says – “Controls the saturation of the RGB color channels. The greater the saturation, the more intense the color. A value of 0 produces a grayscale image. The value acolor channel equally. The default value is 46.”
  • What I say – This one is self explanatory; I always leave this setting at about 75 – 80%, but will go higher if I’m in a very colorful mood.

• Luminosity

  

  • What Photomatix says – “Controls the compression of the tonal range, which has the effect of adjusting the global luminosity level. Moving the slider to the right boosts shadow details and brightens the image. Moving it to the left has the opposite effect, and gives a more “natural” look to the resulting image. The default value is 0.”
  • What I say – Mmmmm this one is a little tricky to explain technically but it really corresponds to the brightness levels in the photo. Set it low and your images will be dark, set it high and your image will be bright! Often I will set this at the very maximum.

• Microcontrast

  

  • What Photomatix says – “Sets how much local details are amplified. A higher value gives a ‘sharper’ look. The default value is 0.”
  • What I say -Very useful for bringing out those hidden details in outdoor shots. Got a wall that looks one dimensional? Do those leaves look too flat?! Increase the microcontrast to bring out the brick and mortar and all those wonderful leafy veins in all their glorious detail!

• Smoothing

  

  • What Photomatix says – “Controls smoothing of the contrast variations throughout the image. This setting has an important influence on the look of the tone mapped image. High values give a more “natural” look, low values a more “artificial” or “painterly” look.”
  • What I say – This is a very important setting and one which many people often set too low. You know those pictures with all the halos around trees and buildings, like the left one above? They come largely from setting the smoothing slider too low. I find it’s best to look at all the smoothing settings and find the one that suits you best, but I would tend for the high end though .

Tone Settings

• White Point

  

• Black Point

  

  • What Photomatix says – “Both sliders control how the minimum and maximum values of the tone mapped image are set. Moving the sliders to the right increases global contrast. Moving them to the left reduces clipping at the extremes. The White Point slider sets the value for the maximum of the tone mapped image (pure white, or level 255). The Black Point slider sets the value for the minimum of the tone mapped image (pure black, or level 0). The default value is 0.25% for the White Point setting and 0% for the Black Point setting.”
  • What I say – I find that both the White and Black Point settings should be used together. Typically I bump up the values of these to give the contrast of the image a bit of umph. The White Point should ALWAYS be greater than the Black Point though.

• Gamma

  

• What Photomatix says – “Adjusts the mid-tone of the tone mapped image, brightening or darkening the image globally. The default value is 1.0.”
• What I say -The Gamma setting is like an extreme way of setting the brightness, kind of. I generally leave it at its default settings unless I’m still not happy with the shot after I’ve fiddled with all other settings.

Color Settings

• Temperature

  

  • What Photomatix says – “Adjusts the color temperature of the tone mapped image relative to the temperature of the HDR source image. Moving the slider to the right will give a “warmer”, more yellow-orange colored look. Moving the slider to the left gives a “colder”, more bluish look. A value of 0 (default) preserves the original color temperature of the HDR source image.”
  • What I say – Photomatix says it all really about this one; increase the temperature setting to give a warm yellow colour, decrease it to give a cooler blue image.

• Saturation Highlights

  

• What Photomatix says – “Adjusts the color saturation of the highlights relative to the color saturation set with the Color Saturation slider. Values higher than 0 increase the color saturation in the highlights; values lower than 0 decrease it. The default value is 0″
• What I say – I don’t use this setting much, but it can be useful for bumping up the colour saturation in some small highlight areas in photos so it’s worth playing around with.

• Saturation Shadows

  

• What Photomatix says – “Adjusts the color saturation of the shadows relative to the color saturation set with the Color Saturation slider. Values higher than zero will increase the color saturation in the shadows. Values lower than zero will decrease it. The default value is 0.”
• What I say – Exact same as for Saturation Highlights, except for shadows .

Miscellaneous Settings

• Micro-smoothing

  

• What Photomatix says – “Smoothes out local detail enhancements. This has the effect of reducing noise in the sky for instance, and tends to give a “cleaner” look to the resulting image. The default value is 2.”
• What I say – Although this will reduce noise as the value of the setting is increased it will also flatten shadows and detail in the image. I leave this at 2 or less as there are other, better ways of cleaning up noise afterwards.

• Highlights Smoothness, Shadows Smoothness, Shadows Clipping

  I always leave these three settings at their minimum values as I’ve yet to see them add anything significant to my images – if I ever do find use for them though I’ll update here accordingly .

I hope these points help you all out, but the most important key to getting the best results with Photomatix is to experiment with the settings yourself. With a bit of luck once you become more adept at manipulating these settings you’ll be creating your own HDR images just like our finished image here:

Photomatix can be found at Hdrsoft.com. There are others, but Photomatix is in my opinion the best I’ve tried. If you have it already that’s great, if not you can download a free trial version from the website for either WINDOWS or MAC OSX. Any images made with the trial version will be watermarked however .

Purchase Photomatix at 15% discount with Coupon Code “projectvisual”

If you’re feeling adventurous you can jump straight in and buy Photomatix for either WINDOWS or MAC at a discount of 15% if you use the coupon code “projectvisual”; you’ll see where to enter it if you click either of my oversized links below! Hdrsoft were kind enough to give me this code because I asked them so nicely

There is actually more to be done after you are through with Photomatix (really???!!!!). It’s true! They’re just quick after touches – I’ll talk about them soon in Part Four!

It’s called Digital Workflow for photographers and outlines a simple to implement, but intuitive manner of keeping track of all your thousands of photos. Trey sees your digital management as an extension of your very self; more and more of the super important information of your life is ending up on your computer and so lots of us need foolproof backup systems. This one comes pretty close. The idea of collections is especially appealing! Give it a check here if it sounds like something you need .

I always like these retro style cafes and restaurants like the one here; this one remind me of 1930′s movies where everyone does the Lindy Hop.

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If you’re interested in knowing how I made this, along with my other photos, you can check out my HDR Tutorial

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Technorati Tags: amsterdam, schiphol, airport, cafe, orange, nikon, d300, netherlands, holland, capital, europe, table, chairs, hdr, tonemapped, projectvisual, high dynamic range

In other news I went up Slieve Foy, also known as Carlingford Mountain to non Irish folk, a couple of weekends ago and in a moment of infinite stupidity thought it would be a good idea not to bring my camera! The views were spectacular! I’m really kicking myself over it and have promised to go back up someday. I feel like I’ve cheated myself and so justice must be served!

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If you’re interested in knowing how I made this, along with my other photos, you can check out my HDR Tutorial

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Technorati Tags: amsterdam, schiphol, airport, cafe, orange, nikon, d300, netherlands, holland, capital, europe, table, chairs, hdr, tonemapped, projectvisual, high dynamic range

Anyway due to the unfortunate weather it was somewhat difficult to get many decent shots. Actually, I spent an extended period of time in Schiphol Airport since my flight was cancelled because of the volcanic ash from Eyjafjallajökull and I got a decent amount of shots in between losing and finding my Passport! Airports are great locations for HDR photography since it is full of all sorts of gleams, metals, reflections and general shininess that HDR loves .

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If you’re interested in knowing how I made this, along with my other photos, you can check out my HDR Tutorial

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Technorati Tags: amsterdam, schiphol, airport, flight, planes, netherlands, holland, capital, europe, cloulds, sky, outdoors, hdr, tonemapped, projectvisual, high dynamic range

Part 3 of my HDR Tutorial is about three months overdue so that’s top of my to do list, in the meantime, enjoy this depressing pic from Scotland .

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If you’re interested in knowing how I made this, along with my other photos, you can check out my HDR Tutorial

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Technorati Tags: scotland, winter, grave, graveyard, grass, green, tomestone, projectvisual, hdr, tone mapped

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If you’re interested in knowing how I made this, along with my other photos, you can check out my HDR Tutorial

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Technorati Tags: ireland, kerry, dingle, boat, water, sea, dock, port, coast, rust, reflection, hdr, tone mapped, high dynamic range, nikon, d300, projectvisual, rope, shore

I should have Part 3 of my HDR Tutorial up tomorrow, I spent all day in a snowball fight (I lost) so I’ll have to put in a super writing bout tomorrow

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If you’re interested in knowing how I made this, along with my other photos, you can check out my HDR Tutorial

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Technorati Tags: gozo, malta, mediterranean, boat, water, sea, dock, port, coast, rust, reflection, hdr, tone mapped, high dynamic range, nikon, d300, projectvisual, rope

Seriously, shouldn’t that net be in the water or something? I’m no fisherman but my non-fishermen instincts were kicking in here. Unfortunately there were no actual fishermen around (apart from two I saw in a pub drinking Guinness at noon) outside who could help me on this niggling matter

There was a whole load of noise in this image – you can see some remnants of it just below the clouds. It was far worse but I cleaned most of it up using some nice software from Imagenomic. It’s called Noiseware Professional Plug in (this link is for the MAC version, the WINDOWS version is here.) It’s a Photoshop plugin that works wonders to drastically reduce the amount of noise in your images – the first time I used it my jaw nearly fell off! I now use it all the time (it’ll feature in my HDR Tutorial). I’ll do a proper review of it when I get the time.

I’ve said it already but I’ll say it again just to remind myself, I’ve started Part 3 of my HDR Tutorial, it’s getting there but still won’t be online for a couple more days – let’s put a definite latest date on it: 10^th January

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If you’re interested in knowing how I made this, along with my other photos, you can check out my HDR Tutorial

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Technorati Tags: dingle, kerry, ireland, 2010, new years, fishing, net, ships, boats, sky, winter, cold, tone mapping, high dynamic range HDR, D300, nikon, tonemapped, projectvisual

I’ve started Part 3 of my HDR Tutorial, but it won’t be online for a couple more days – college has begun again and some things just have to take priority

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If you’re interested in knowing how I made this, along with my other photos, you can check out my HDR Tutorial

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Technorati Tags: gozo, malta, mediterranean, tone mapping, high dynamic range HDR, D300, nikon, tonemapped, projectvisual

Right, we know now what HDR is and what type of results we can achieve from the whole process. The next step is to actually get outside and take some RAW images! For this you will need:

1. A camera (essential, DSLR is highly recommended), that can shoot in RAW (preferable but not essential), and can auto bracket (preferable but will be a real pain if it can’t ).
2. A tripod (preferable; I have one, rarely bring it with me on trips, and always regret not having it.)

My current camera of choice is the Nikon D300 (you can pick up its successor, the D300s at B&H Photo); it’s solid, heavy, fast, and takes great images. It also shoots in RAW, a feature found on all DSLRs. RAW is the uncompressed sensor data that is captured by your DSLR each time you take a picture. If you shoot in JPG then what you are really doing is shooting in RAW and letting your camera compress the data into a JPG before saving. This all happens in the background and requires no input from you, however you are losing valuable image information by setting your camera to shoot in JPG. HDR is still doable with a set of JPGs; it just probably won’t give you the best results.

The D300 also has that single most important feature I mentioned in Part 1: auto-bracketing (AEB). AEB is the ability of a camera to take a metered shot (that’s your initial shot), followed in quick succession by a user defined number of under and over exposed shots (remember my five thumbnail shots in Part 1?). The amount of under or over exposure is measured in exposure values (EVs). I’m sure there are entire books on just exposure. In fact, here’s one! And here’s another! However I’m going to explain it as best I can in just a few lines!

Understanding Exposure Values- A crash course.

EV is a function of your camera’s ISO, shutter speed, and aperture size, and all other things remaining constant (e.g. if you’re in manual mode), will vary like this:

• If you increase your ISO, you increase the EV. When shooting for HDR we only use a single ISO value (the lower the better to minimise noise), so we don’t need to worry about this.
• Opening your aperture, e.g. from f/11 to f/4 will increase your EV. We also only use one aperture setting, to keep the depth of field constant (I always shoot using aperture priority) so we don’t need to worry about this either. Easy so far!
• Shutter speed is where all the action happens . Increasing the shutter speed will reduce the EV. Specifically, if you double your shutter speed, say from 1/15s to 1/30s the EV will decrease by about 1. Conversely, if you half your shutter speed, say from 1/30s to 1/15s the EV will increase by about 1.

Many DSLRs, the D300 included, can be set up to automatically take under and over exposed images at EV values of ±1 and ±2, relative to the initial metered shot. In Part 1 of this tutorial my metered shot was at 1/60s, and my under and overexposed shots were at shutter speeds of 1/15s (+2EV), 1/30s (+1EV), 1/125s (-1EV) and 1/250s (-2EV). As you’ve probably realised by now this is a very, very handy feature to have on your camera if you’re interested in HDR photography; without it you would have to manually change your shutter speed to give you the proper change in EV, something I’m sure I would grow tired of very quickly! When getting any DSLR make sure it has AEB functions.

Anything else?

Yes actually! You really should get a tripod. Keeping your camera steady while it is taking multiple images at different EVs is quite tough without one; I’ve tried it handheld and it just doesn’t really work. Sitting your camera on a wall or table is a workaround but then you are severely limiting the number of directions you can point your lens . On the rare occasion I bother to bring them, I use Hahnel Triad 50 tripod legs with a Manfrotto 322RC2 Joystick Head. The joystick head is a real wonder – it allows almost 360 degree positioning for your camera with nothing more than a squeeze of the grip. A tripod is well worth investing in if your serious about tack sharp images, there are plenty to choose from over at the B&H Photo website. The Manfrotto joystick head is also in stock .

I know now what I need, what do I shoot?

I don’t know! Whatever you want! Anything can be HDRed, the trick is knowing what can be HDRed well. Personally I love landscape shots with cloudy skies, shiny vehicles are great too, oh shots when the sun is prominent can be wonderful too, but they’re a bit tricky. The best thing to do is just get out and experiment. The one thing you want to keep in mind is you’re looking for a scene that cannot be captured by a single exposure; they’ll benefit most from the HDR treatment. Some examples are a dark room with a bright window, landscapes with a glaring sun, you get the idea…

To aid this tutorial I went out, set up my tripod, fastened my D300 securely to it, set my ISO to 200, aperture priority at f/9, and AEB to take a metered shot and four others at ±2 and ±1EV. The shutter speed of the metered shot was chosen by my camera to be 1/800s. Can you work out the other shutter speeds from this? Remember I don’t have to figure out these other shutter speeds, the camera does that for me, I just tell it the EVs to use. Here are the five images I took, below it is the finished HDR.

In Part 3 we’ll actually talk about turning the five images above into the finished HDR photo. The one essential piece of software you’ll need for this is Photomatix, which can be found at Hdrsoft.com. There are others, but Photomatix is in my opinion the best I’ve tried. If you have it already that’s great, if not you can download a free trial version from the website for either WINDOWS or MAC OSX. Any images made with the trial version will be watermarked however .

Purchase Photomatix at 15% discount with Coupon Code “projectvisual”

If you’re feeling adventurous you can jump straight in and buy Photomatix for either WINDOWS or MAC at a discount of 15% if you use the coupon code “projectvisual”; you’ll see where to enter it if you click either of my oversized links below! Hdrsoft were kind enough to give me this code because I asked them so nicely

A quick recap.

• You’ll want a camera with AEB functions. The D300s, with a 16-85mm VR lens has them, but may be a bit expensive at over $2000! For the more budget conscience consumer, the Nikon D5000, with an 18-105mm lens and AEB controls will set you back just a shade over $1000. Of course there are cheaper ones still, browse around B&H Photo.com and see what catches your eye.
• Tripod legs and head: anything sturdy will do . Again, I’d recommend the Manfrotto Joystick Head, just because it’s unbelievably convenient.

Some final tips that I’ve learned from the D300:

1. If you have slow moving subjects in your scene like clouds or leaves perhaps, use a large aperture to increase the speed at which your images are captured. This won’t help when it comes to dynamic scenes such as people moving – but there’s a way around that…
2. Use continuous auto-focus; if you chose single auto-focus your camera will refocus (possibly on different subjects) between each shot, and we don’t want that now!
3. Shoot in aperture priority when shooting HDR; pick your own depth of field and leave the shutter speed to the camera.

Part 3 of this tutorial will arrive early in the New Year (it’s here!), in the meantime I’m heading down to south Ireland to ring in the new decade

P.S. If there is some information you feel is lacking / not explained well here please lets me know and I’ll fill in the gaps

You may notice a rather large structure in today’s photo; it is of course the Eiffel Tower, and just like the last time I was in Paris, I wasn’t able to go up to the top of it since it was once again closed for maintenance! I’m beginning to believe that I’ll never make it inside.

This trip was the first where I used my Nikon 50mm Nifty Fifty lens, the fact that it’s a prime lens and so doesn’t zoom took quite a bit of getting used to; I was constantly stepping back to try and get everything in my shots!

If you’re interested in knowing how I made this, and all my other photos, you can check out Part 1 of my HDR tutorial; Part 2 should be online sometime tomorrow

Technorati Tags: Paris, France, Eiffel Tower, HDR, D300, nikon tonemapped, projectvisual

It’s been one year now since I started dabbling in HDR photography and thought it was high time to put together a tutorial on the subject.

HDR (High Dynamic Range) photos are running rampant on the internet at the moment, so I’m going to assume you all know what is meant by the term HDR – blending multiple pictures of the same scene, shot at different shutter speeds in order to capture the full range of lights and shadows.
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OK quick example: look at the array of five images below. They’re all of the same scene, but one thing is different in all of them: each was shot at a different shutter speed. Why did I do that? Well, if you look at each photo you can see that different parts are either under, over, or properly exposed. Look at the middle photo; that’s my metered photo and was shot using a shutter speed of 1/60s and aperture of f/22 (at an ISO of 200). I was using aperture priority at the time and exposure, apart from the sky, looks OK. However, if I hadn’t been shooting with the intention of making a HDR image then I would have only taken this image and I would be left with an overexposed sky. But I also took four other images, at shutter speeds of 1/250s (1^st image), 1/125s (2^nd image), 1/30s (4^th image) and 1/15s (5^th image). Between the five images I should have the full range of lights and shadows in the scene (the first two contains details of the sky while the last two contain details in the foreground). You can see from the histogram beneath each photo that it moves from black to white as the exposure is increased so I know I’m getting the full spectrum of light.

Once you have a set of such photos, and I’ll explain the best way to do this, you can combine them together using some software like Photomatix or HDR Max, and do some touch up in Photoshop, I’ll explain all this later so don’t worry

First though, here are some of my favorite photos that I’ve taken. Just to confuse you a little more, some of these were made using just one photo – I’ll explain how that works too! I’ve included the original metered image so you can contrast it to the HDR photo; I think you’ll agree HDR can significantly umph up your portfolio!

Glendalough (Ireland)

Barcelona (Spain)

Notre Dame (France)

Barcelona (Spain)

Valletta (Malta)

OK, now you’ve seen the type of results you can achieve using HDR techniques (these photos are really tone mapped rather than high dynamic range, but to 90% of the internet population they’re called HDR so let’s not nitpick!), the next step is to run through quickly what you will need to get great results. First on the list: you need some decent HARDWARE!! Head on over to Part Two to hear what I use, and find out what the single most important feature is that you’ll need on your camera to maximise your HDR photos